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  • Writer's pictureedwu91

Long Term Review - Sensah SRX grouspet


After 1500kms of riding, I’ve been able to stress test the Sensah SRX groupset and Winspace frameset/wheelset. In this review, I’m just looking at the groupset.



1.0 TL;DR Summary:

Even though this groupset is marketed for gravel, I would say it is better suited for road or “gravel lite”. It’s not going to cut it when bombing down singletrack. The main issue comes down to the braking performance. In terms of “long term” performance, there are some parts which have failed pretty early on, most of them bolts.


An overview of the good/bad is tabulated below.

Good

Bad

Crisp and light shifting

Ergonomics not for everyone

compatible with SRAM shifting and HG freehub

Braking power

Easy maintenance

Bundle needs larger rotors

Price point

quality issues with some bolts

Each part is discussed in detail in this section and then summarized in how they perform in different riding styles at the end.


2.0 Summary of Part Performance:


2.1 Shifters (Sensah SRX PRO):

The shifters are 11 speed and use a double tap like system. It's a single integrated lever for shifting and braking on the rear. The front lever is brake only. Cable actuated braking and shifting.

Good

Bad

light shifting action

no reach adjustment

integrated 1 piece lever

no texture on the aluminum shift paddle. slippery when raining

interchangible with SRAM exact actuation shifters

lever ergonomics may not be for everyone


2.2 Cassette (ZRACE Alpha 11-50):

Several cassette options are available for this groupset. The cassette on this bike is an 11-50 (the max tooth range is 46-52). The cogs are riveted onto an aluminum carriage. Most of the cogs are steel. Only the 11t, 12t cogs are not rivetted to the main carriage

Good

Bad

​most cogs on aluminum carriage reduces freehub bite

heavy, when compared to cassettes 5x it's price

HG compatible

aluminum 50t cog

poor anodizing finish

2.3 Rear Derailleur (Sensah SRX PRO):

The rear derailleur does not have a clutch, instead has a spring tension adjuster. It has a max tooth of 52t and can even be used in a 2x system.

Good

Bad

Super wide range and able to easily hit every gear on an 11-50t cassette

​Detensioning during gravel rides due to barrel adjuster not having grooves. I cut some grooves in to help keep the cable tension dialed.

When properly tensioned and set, no shifting issues.

Cable clamping method seems like an afterthought

​super versatile derailleur out of the box (wide range + 2x usable)

​No clutch, but haven't noticed any chain slap

can't backpedal on smallest cog without top of chain getting sucked into frame.

Guide pulley uses non-sealed bearing. Rusts in the rain.

No cage lock

2.4 Brake Caliper (ZRACE BR-002):

The brake calipers are cable actuated hydraulic brake calipers. They are flat mount and come with finned metal brake pads. The brake calipers use mineral oil

Good

Bad

Simple to install

Dirt builds up in the cable housing. Grime splashed into the housing. Will impact rear brake performance over time

easy to maintain

“cogging feeling” while pulling the rear lever due to internal cable housing routing.

​Front and rear caliper has a lazy piston

Need larger brake rotors

140mm flat mount front adapter cannot be flipped to mount 160mm rotor. Needs a different adapter

Needs a lot of braking force. See here for more info:

2.5 Crankset (ZRACE RX 44T):

Very similar to Rotor 3D cranksets. Uses 110BDC 5bolt design. DUB standard. crankset can accept 1x and 2x chainrings. Crank Spider is SRAM road compatible. (Power2Max SRAM power meter attaches nicely(.

Good

Bad

simple, machined parts

Chainring bolts need to be replaced. They brake easily and are a source of creeking

SRAM compatible spider design. Easy to find compatible power meters

Crank spider bolts need to be replaced with non security torx bolts

Axle spins freely

Doesn't clear debris like SRAM X-sync

Narrow wide chainring works well to keep the chain on

Aluminum axle. Would prefer steel as bottom bracket inner race is steel.

2.6 Bottom Bracket (ZRACE DUB 2951)

BSA DUB specced bottom bracket. No issues with the bottom bracket so far! Measures to spec and has sealed cartridge bearings.


2.7 Chain (ZRACE 11S Black)

- surprisingly long life. Anodizing



There's two riding considerations for this groupset. On-road and off-road performance. Below is how the groupset has faired in the two riding types.


3.0 On-Road Performance:

On the road, this groupset performs well.


Shifting is consistent and light. Shifts fine under moderate load (< ~700W) The bigger the cog jump, the more noticeable the downshift “clunk” feels. The rear derailleur shifting is on par with Shimano 7000 and better than SRAM Rival/Force 1X. You are able to upshift up to 3 gears.


Braking is adequate for road riding, although expect an arm workout at the end of your ride. Even with slick 32mm tires I was never able to skid the tires at max braking.


Rotors should be at least 160mm because of friction losses in system. Coupled with poor wet weather performance, 160mm should be the absolute min rotor size. This would be an “upgrade” from the combo package you can get from aliexpress.


The shifter hood ergonomics are ok. As you wear rubber in, they start to feel more supple.


Wet weather riding is sub par.

Metal brake pads are terrible in wet weather (stock brake pads). However, they last much longer than resin brake pads.

Unsealed metal bearing in the rear derailleur jockey wheel not sealed, making wet weather riding a rust prone adventure.


3.1 Summary On-Road Performance: 7/10

Great for a 1x road bike/gravel lite build as long as you replace some of the bolts that come with the groupset. Can swap some parts to make it more wet weather friendly. Shifting is competitive to SRAM Rival/Force 1X and Shimano 105 7000.



4.0 Off-Road Performance:

This groupset is marketed as a gravel groupset. I’ve ridden this groupset on mud, snow, rain, and whatever else a West Coast winter brings. My experience is not great for gravel. There are several issues.

  • Issue 1: rear derailleur adjustment barrel loosens over time on rough roads. This can solved with a DIY fix (see derailleur section).

  • Issue 2: After about 100km of gravel, some bolts without threadlock tend to loosen.

  • Issue 3: The rear derailleur uses a non-sealed bearing and will rust.

  • Issue 4: The worst part about the groupset is braking. It’s not sufficient for technical or aggressive riding. There are ways to improve the braking performance, but on this frame, there are too many cable bends resulting in a high friction system. Externally routing brake cables will likely have better braking performance. The brakes have a slight amount of modulation, but the braking takes so much effort that by the middle of a 40Km gravel ride, it’s usually just an on/off feeling.


4.1 Summary of off-road performance: 4/10

Braking is lacking for all weather/terrain riding. Need to dial setup again after ~100Km without hack. On a bike without internal cable routing, braking performance will increase and can make the groupset more appealing as a gravel groupset.


5.0 Changes to stock groupset:

Based on what I described above, I've done the following:

  • buy a set of stainless steel chainring bolts

  • cut the rear derailleur slots

  • change to 160mm rotors

  • buy 160mm rotor flat mount adapters.

  • Threadlock once you’ve dialed in the groupset.

I will be replacing the rear derailleur bearing with either a delrin sleeve or a sealed cartridge bearing (pending what's available)


6.0 Summary:


For $400, you’re looking at a bargain for satisfactory performance. You’re not getting the best performance out of a groupset, but if your goal is to get out and ride more and not worry about breaking the bank to fix broken parts, then this groupset is worth considering. You’ll get a great shifting groupset, but will lack in braking and will require frequent tuning or some DIY work. A few upgrades (or purchase parts separately on aliexpress) and bolt replacements and it becomes competitive with most cable actuated disc groupset on the market.


6.1 Buy if:

  • You’re getting into cycling and want to upgrade an entry level bike into something more capable.

  • You're touring or bikepacking on mostly paved surfaces and want some extra gears.

  • You want to simplify your drivetrain

6.2 Don’t buy if:

  • You want to bomb down singletrack

  • You're riding in the rain constantly (unless you upgrade brake pads, rotors, and bearing)

  • You're racing

  • You aren't able/want to tinker with your drivetrain.

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